18 replies to this topic

[chasnbons]

Hi

Would anyone have a know working either Sanken SPS077w (44v or 48v) or Stadium SEA13/14/07, that they would be prepared to lend me to let me rule out that my PSU is faulty pls.

No point in me buying one if mine is OK

Any offers of help greatly appreciated

Please don't tell me to try The Mecca as I already have, and to make matters worse, they are moving servers so access is limiyed at the moment.

Thanks

Phil

[fruitman69]

Wouldnt it be easier to just meter out the PSU?

[chasnbons]

Probably, if I has a decent meter and knew what I was doing and how to do it

[FruitBash]

Is your machine not working properly at the moment then?

[chasnbons]

Is your machine not working properly at the moment then?

Cashino's just fine m8 thanks, I now got a bar X ten as well, which has loads of problems and I'm trying to eliminate things one at a time.

[chasnbons]

Probably, if I has a decent meter and knew what I was doing and how to do it

I now have a decent meter and hopefully will be testing PSU tonight, will keep this updated in case anyone's interested

[jim2311]

Noticed in the shout box you asking about using a multimeter. You didn't say if you had required an analogue or a digital meter, but if you are still looking for info...
Digital meters are pretty much fool proof, just switch to Volts, Ohms, etc and measure.
Analogue are different. If you are in any doubt set to the highest setting before measuring, then scale down if necessary for a more accurate reading.
PSUs have a Hot side and a Cold side and when measuring voltages the correct ground must be selected. The meter black lead connects to ground.
The Hot side is on the mains side, with the cold side usually being isolated from the Hot side via a transformer. The secondary windings of the transformer produces AC power supplies that are converted to produce the various DC output from the PSU.
If the DC voltage appears to be correct switch the meter to AC and read again. It should read almost zero, but if it indicates an AC voltage present then suspect the electrolytic capacitors. The tops should be flat and if any have a swollen top then replace.
You can take a reading and expect say, 24 volts but only read say 16 volts. This does not suggest the PSU is faulty, the low reading can be caused by a fault elsewhere in the machine pulling the voltage down. In that case isolate it (unplug the lead) and take another reading. If it is still 16v then it's possible the fault lies in the PSU. If it read 24v (or higher as there is no load) then look outside the PSU.
Good luck and be careful if you're exploring the Hot side. Check the cold side first. If you get voltages out then the Hot side is usually ok, but again if all the voltages are low then that could also be caused by the Capacitors in the Hot side.
Unfortunately, possessing a multimeter is not much good if you cannot interpret what the readings indicate.

[chasnbons]

Hi Jim

Thanks for all that info, I was guided through testing last night by dr slots from Mecca, and it turns out that there's basically bugger all coming out of PSU

The readings were as follows

+5v = -0.42
+13v = 0.1 to 0.08 fluctuating constantly
+24v = 0.03 to 0.08 '' ''

All reading were taken straight from PSU without a load (nothing connected)

So we gonna try a know working PSU and see what happens there, since testing though I now have an error which says F.E.O.O in credit display and n.n. in credit window both constantly flashing, not got a clue what that means. It's an Electrocoin Bar X Ten Casino Cab btw.

[jim2311]

The fact that there are some signs of life must mean the PSU is delivering some output.
Some PSUs require a an acknowledgement from the Micro or will immediately close down, so if you checked all voltages off load then that could be the reason you got no readings. Another reason could be you measured from the wrong ground ie, the Hot side ground, and ofcourse if you had the meter set to measure AC instead of DC.
I’m not familiar with Dr Slots, but if he has the experience of PSU repairs then he probably suggested those reasons already.

Having a working a PSU (or any substitute board) to try is ideal, and can save a lot of time and head scratching, and also lets you know where to concentrate your repair efforts, and allows you to take some comparison checks.

Fingers crossed.

[chasnbons]

The fact that there are some signs of life must mean the PSU is delivering some output.
Some PSUs require a an acknowledgement from the Micro or will immediately close down, so if you checked all voltages off load then that could be the reason you got no readings. Another reason could be you measured from the wrong ground ie, the Hot side ground, and ofcourse if you had the meter set to measure AC instead of DC.
I’m not familiar with Dr Slots, but if he has the experience of PSU repairs then he probably suggested those reasons already.

Having a working a PSU (or any substitute board) to try is ideal, and can save a lot of time and head scratching, and also lets you know where to concentrate your repair efforts, and allows you to take some comparison checks.

Fingers crossed.

Well forget everything i said earlier, i had probes in meter wrong, dozy get that i am!

proper readings are

+5v = 5.21
+13v = 12.62
+24v = 22.3
+44v = 46.7

[jim2311]

Well forget everything i said earlier, i had probes in meter wrong, dozy get that i am!

proper readings are

+5v = 5.21
+13v = 12.62
+24v = 22.3
+44v = 46.7

You didn't say if those reading were taken with the PSU hooked up or off load.
I would say the more important voltages would be the 5v and the 13v as these would be used, and even broken down to a lower voltage eg 3.3v ...1.8v for the integrated circuits, and they appear to be fine. I don't know how crucial the 24v and the 44v are, it all depends on their function.
See what difference there is, if any, when you try the replacement PSU.

[chasnbons]

We now come to the conclusion that there's a board prob, after testing, testing and more testing lol.

MPU hardly changing the readng from PSU so board off today for testing, if Prog ROM is knackered, it might explain all the other weird thind the reels are doing.

So board and reel (reels just so board don't get lonely) having a holiday to Essex and hopefully will come home all the better for their little break
Will keep you informed of any progress

[borgred]

hope you do old chap

[chasnbons]

hope you do old chap

So glad to see you haven't left the scene m8
Parts hopefully settin off on their hols today so will prob be another week or so till they get sorted, will just have to wait and see, I got EVERYTHING crossed

[borgred]

hope it gets sorted,i will be back on there soon.no probs

[chasnbons]

Cheers for that Tommy m8, I've written that down so I don't forget if it's still there when I get machine back together (if that EVER happens lol)

Thanks
Phil

[chasnbons]

Just a quick update

It turns out that the board is OK, but it has the wrong software (proms) in it. These are hopefully getting sorted as I type this
The ones that were in it were aparently for the sit down version, which explains a lot. The bloke I got the machine off said he also had a sit down Bar X if I wanted it. If I join this with the fact that when I got mine everything was disconnected from the board, I can only come to the conclusion that the bloke (who had obviously been messing inside it) must have at some point got the board from the sit down one, into mine. I will never be certain of this, but it sounds logical to me. One thing I AM certain of though, is that it was the seller who robbed the light box out of it, and that ne no longer has it .

I'll let you know what happens when I get all the parts returned and back into the machine, fingers crossed that it will work

[FruitBash]

I know this was a couple of weeks ago now, but would be very interested to hear if you managed to get this up and running!!